Israel, Part 2: Jerusalem

“Jerusalem is the only ancient city I’ve ever seen whose antiquities are not on
display as relics, but are in daily use…”
- Saul Bellow 

How do you see Jerusalem if you only have a day? Give it your best shot and hope you have a chance to come back again someday. The thing that amazed me most was how many cultures, religions, and time periods are piled on top of each other in such a small area. I've visited other cities that have Roman ruins and ancient cathedrals, but this is like the epicenter, and it's all still being used by various people. It is an ancient place, but still living and breathing.

We were again traveling with our wonderful, international group of friends, and we had a security guard named Yuad whose job it was to keep us safe and together. Because I was taking pictures, I tended to bring up the rear and wander off.  He of course had to follow me, and before long he was pointing out things that would make a good photo and giving me a history of the area.

Israeli school boys

Even as we walked down the ancient alleyways, the people who lived there went about their daily business: shopping, talking, going to school.

A shopkeeper in the Arab Quarter

We spent quite a bit of time in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Although, or maybe because, I'm not particularly religious, I was able to be an observer of others' faith. It was amazing to see pilgrims from all over the world waiting and worshiping in different areas of the church devoted to different denominations.

Women praying in the Greek Orthodox area near the Golgotha Altar

Pilgrims resting in the Church courtyard

 As we exited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I was amazed to emerge into an Orthodox Ethiopian Monastery on the roof of the Church. They claimed the area centuries ago. History piled on top of history, all of it still in use!

Orthodox Ethiopian Monk reading as his laundry dries

Street corner prophet

 While the others stopped for a coffee, a wandered off to talk to this man weaving prayer shawls in front of his shop. We talked for a bit, and then he asked me who the man with me was. I blurted out, "He's my...security friend...he's my body guard!" The weaver, who had a California accent and had lived there for years, thought I was an actress or some other famous person.

Prayer shawl weaver

I took these two photos in different places, but when I looked at them afterward I was struck by how little boys with toy guns grow up to be soldiers with real guns. It made me a bit sad.

As we made our way to the Western Wall Plaza, I found it interesting to watch the faces of both the pilgrims and the vendors.

Vendor tying a Kabbalah red string bracelet to ward off bad luck

When we arrived at the Plaza, we realized there was a military dress rehearsal taking place. The soldiers all looked so young.

Soldiers singing at a military dress rehearsal

Finally we made it to the wall. The men and women approached on either side of a barricade. The women's side was much smaller than the men's, but it was a truly moving experience to watch them touch the wall and pray. Tiny bits of paper with prayer requests were tucked into every crevice between the stones. It was here, more than anywhere else in the city, that I felt the spiritual energy of so many people together, yet each alone in their prayers.

Woman praying at the Western Wall