Israel, Part 2: Jerusalem

“Jerusalem is the only ancient city I’ve ever seen whose antiquities are not on
display as relics, but are in daily use…”
- Saul Bellow 

How do you see Jerusalem if you only have a day? Give it your best shot and hope you have a chance to come back again someday. The thing that amazed me most was how many cultures, religions, and time periods are piled on top of each other in such a small area. I've visited other cities that have Roman ruins and ancient cathedrals, but this is like the epicenter, and it's all still being used by various people. It is an ancient place, but still living and breathing.

We were again traveling with our wonderful, international group of friends, and we had a security guard named Yuad whose job it was to keep us safe and together. Because I was taking pictures, I tended to bring up the rear and wander off.  He of course had to follow me, and before long he was pointing out things that would make a good photo and giving me a history of the area.

Israeli school boys

Even as we walked down the ancient alleyways, the people who lived there went about their daily business: shopping, talking, going to school.

A shopkeeper in the Arab Quarter

We spent quite a bit of time in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Although, or maybe because, I'm not particularly religious, I was able to be an observer of others' faith. It was amazing to see pilgrims from all over the world waiting and worshiping in different areas of the church devoted to different denominations.

Women praying in the Greek Orthodox area near the Golgotha Altar

Pilgrims resting in the Church courtyard

 As we exited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I was amazed to emerge into an Orthodox Ethiopian Monastery on the roof of the Church. They claimed the area centuries ago. History piled on top of history, all of it still in use!

Orthodox Ethiopian Monk reading as his laundry dries

Street corner prophet

 While the others stopped for a coffee, a wandered off to talk to this man weaving prayer shawls in front of his shop. We talked for a bit, and then he asked me who the man with me was. I blurted out, "He's my...security friend...he's my body guard!" The weaver, who had a California accent and had lived there for years, thought I was an actress or some other famous person.

Prayer shawl weaver

I took these two photos in different places, but when I looked at them afterward I was struck by how little boys with toy guns grow up to be soldiers with real guns. It made me a bit sad.

As we made our way to the Western Wall Plaza, I found it interesting to watch the faces of both the pilgrims and the vendors.

Vendor tying a Kabbalah red string bracelet to ward off bad luck

When we arrived at the Plaza, we realized there was a military dress rehearsal taking place. The soldiers all looked so young.

Soldiers singing at a military dress rehearsal

Finally we made it to the wall. The men and women approached on either side of a barricade. The women's side was much smaller than the men's, but it was a truly moving experience to watch them touch the wall and pray. Tiny bits of paper with prayer requests were tucked into every crevice between the stones. It was here, more than anywhere else in the city, that I felt the spiritual energy of so many people together, yet each alone in their prayers.

Woman praying at the Western Wall

Israel, Part 1: Epiphany in Tel Aviv

"Life begins at the end of your comfort zone." -- Neale Donald Walsch

About a year ago I was lucky enough to be able to tag along with Tom on a business trip to Israel. I have to admit it is not somewhere I had ever thought about visiting, but I never pass up an opportunity to travel. We were with a lovely, international group of people with whom we had travelled before. While Tom and his cohorts were tending to business affairs, my friends and I were able to explore different areas of Tel Aviv. What a fantastic city! Beautiful, safe, cosmopolitan; truly a wonderful place.

I of course had my trusty camera along, and decided I would do something I've never done before: ask strangers if I could take their picture. This was a huge stretch for me, as I was normally a quiet, reserved person. But something extraordinary happened on that day in Tel Aviv: I connected with people like I never had, striking up conversations, laughing, learning, and sharing something very special.

It began in the neighborhood of Neve Tzedek, when my friend Vivian encouraged me to approach a man sitting at a street corner.

Amnon Nissim, the king of matkot

 Not only did he gladly let me take his picture, but he invited us up to his apartment. His name was Amnon Nissim, and he was very proud of his status of the king of matkot (beach paddleball) for 50 years. His apartment was full of memorabilia: paddles, photographs, newspaper articles. He was a lovely man and it was really special to get a glimpse into this life.

 







Further down the street, we peeked into the doorway of a shop and met two very friendly printers. Since our husbands are both in the printing business, Vivian and I were able to make a connection, and they happily let me take some pictures.

The happy printer

Next we travelled on to Old Jaffa to have lunch and visit the market. As our driver parked the car and we were walking down an alleyway, I looked up and was greeted by some construction workers in a bucket truck. They toasted us as I took their picture.

Cheers!

We had a fantastic Mediterranean meal at a rooftop restaurant. The waiters were great fun; I think I have a friend for life!

After lunch we spent some time in the market. The history and culture were fascinating, and the people so interesting. Emboldened by my successes, I continued to ask people if I could take their pictures. I did get some rejections and rude replies, but by and large people were very willing to be engaged. It was such a wonderful way to be able to strike up a conversation and make a connection.

The rug merchant

This proud and distinguished rug merchant kindly let me photograph him. I just wish I could have a way to give these people a copy of the pictures I took.

Friends

I just loved these two men. They were very friendly and called me over, then said, "Do you like Obama?" Talk about a loaded question! I had no idea how to answer that one in the context of where I was, so I said, "Do you?" It turned out they did, very much (as long as he supports Israel). Then they let me take their picture.

Israeli Soldiers

We met a group of Israeli soldiers relaxing at a cafe. I think some of them weren't too sure if they should be photographed, but they obliged.

At the end of that fantastic day I was in love with the people of Israel, and almost floating on air at how well I had been able to make connections and feel at ease meeting strangers in a strange land, all because the camera around my neck gave me the courage to say hello.